Carolyn McKinney laughs every time a group of Cherokee Street scenesters aged 20 or more “discovers” Iowa Buffet (2727 Winnebago Street, 314-776-8000) The south-city institution she’s known since childhood. She isn’t sure which is more fun — whether they think they have found a hidden gem, or that her place suddenly seems so trendy.
McKinney has managed Iowa Buffet’s corner-tavern tradition for 35 years. However, her relationship with the bar goes back much further. The place had a rich history when she first started coming there as a youngster. Although she doesn’t know the exact date, Iowa Buffet was established in 1887. The property on which the bar is located was still being operated commercially since then. Thanks to a photo of the Leindeckers, she can confirm that Iowa Buffet existed in 1945. According to her, Vicky and Hank Kozicki owned the bar for only a few months before selling it to them.
McKinney, a young girl from St. Louis County, was first introduced to the bar in the Koziacki era. McKinney’s family used to come to St. Louis to visit their relatives. This was a weekly tradition that involved the children seeing a movie at the old Cinderella Theater, while their parents went to Soulard Market and visited Showboat bar. McKinney described that magical time as filled with pretzels, ice cream from the corner shops, and running around with her friends while the adults played cards at Iowa Street’s aunt’s house.
Iowa Buffet was part of this magic. McKinney, a child, was amazed at how active the Koziackis were within the community. Their bar was the central meeting place for the entire neighborhood. Hank, who was also a deputy for St. Louis City, was the first to sponsor local sports teams, host political events at his bar, or serve Polish sausage and sauerkraut on the day before St. Patrick’s Day. He would have Santa Claus visit for Christmas and give out candy at Easter. Iowa Buffet was the McKinney family gathering place that became Showboat because of its warm and welcoming atmosphere.
McKinney recalls, “Nobody went hungry and everyone took care of everybody.” It was the heart of the street. We would all come in as county kids and tell each other how much we loved the city. There’s nothing quite like it to this day: the diversity, the sharing of knowledge, and the caring for each other.
McKinney enjoyed Iowa Buffet as a customer, but she never intended to run the restaurant. McKinney had planned to leave the restaurant and bar business. She was a “bleeding heart” and found herself drawn into the service sector by taking on catering jobs for parishioners who couldn’t afford a wedding. After her efforts were heard by priests and nuns, she was soon doing catering work for the entire parish. Although she had hoped to limit her workload, she was compelled to help a friend cater for her event.
McKinney recalls that Pat, a friend, wanted to work at a bar. I advised her against it, but she was still allowed in to interview.” McKinney said, recalling how the bar wanted her to be hired instead. She broke her arm the first night she was on the job after I convinced him to hire her. I was told by her boss that it was his idea to hire her. So, you must come to work for me.
McKinney was an absolute natural. Her talents quickly became known throughout the south-city bar-and-restaurant scene. Despite her insistence that she did not want to work in the restaurant business, she was recruited by each establishment. McKinney was invited by the Koziackis to purchase Iowa Buffet. She signed the paperwork after a friend disappeared into federal protective custody.
McKinney states that McKinney told McKinney that she had been able to return to St. Louis about a year later. However, she still needed a place to stay and work. “She begged me for the bar. So what does bleeding-heart Carol do?” My husband and I went to the bank and we were soon able to get a bar.”
McKinney was not a friend that stayed with him for very long. McKinney is still strong after 35 years. McKinney has not only made peace in her industry career, but she is also in love with the industry. She is a staunch defender of the bar’s old-school spirit and has been reluctant to make any changes in the past. When she was asked to install a Hood system, she even apologized to her family and decided to add a patio to her home, fearing that any alteration would be against their wishes.
Iowa Buffet’s iconic hamburger grill is one thing she won’t change. It is a reminder of how bars used to cook food. Since at least the Koziacki period, the bar has been making burgers in this way. The Hank Burger is named after the former owner. It’s the first thing people associate with Iowa Buffet.
McKinney doesn’t know the origin of the name buffet. However, she does have some ideas. In the past, taverns didn’t have full kitchens but rather had an area to carve whole hams and roast beef. There was also a small steam station with some sides and soup, chili, or tamales. Although such an area was not available when she took over Iowa Buffet’s operations, the bar had its own Saturday spread that included Limburger cheese and liverwurst, rye bread, pickled pigs’ feet, hard-boiled eggs, and rye bread. There were also regular specials like pork chops cooked on the grill.
Although the spread might look different these days, Iowa Buffet is still a vital part of St. Louis’ rich bar heritage. McKinney believes this is the reason for the place’s appeal — that guests today are looking for something real. McKinney is thrilled to be able to provide it.
McKinney states, “If you want the heart and soul of the community, it’s at the dive bar.” People come here to feel at home. This is what we offer and they need me as much as I do. It would be impossible for me to live without it. It’s amazing how much it means to me. I am often asked by people when I will retire. I answer them when the lid is closed. It won’t be long before my heart and soul return to the earth.
